Tare da ci gaba da zurfafa zurfafa ci gaba da bincike na aikace-aikacen masu haɓaka, iyakar aikace-aikacen ta kuma fadada. A halin yanzu, masu amfani da ruwa sun zama manyan abubuwan da ake hada kayan wanki, kuma suna da mahimman aikace-aikace masu yawa a kayan shafawa, kamar emulsifying, dispersing, solubilizing, foaming and cleaning in cosmetics.

1) Emulsification

Abunda ke haifarda emulsifying abubuwa marasa ruwa mai narkewa a cikin ruwa don samar da emulsion ana kiran sa emulsification. Emulsifiers galibi ana amfani dasu wajen samar da mayuka da mayukan shafawa a cikin kayan shafawa. Kayan shafawa na yau da kullun da tsaka tsaki sune duka emulsions na 0 / W, wanda za'a iya emulsified tare da sabulu mai ƙanshi mai ƙanshi mai sabulu (sabulu). Zai fi sauƙi don shirya emulsions tare da ƙaramin mai ta hanyar emulsification sabulu, kuma tasirin giya na sabulu na iya zama Sanya shi da ɗanko mafi girma. Don mayuka masu sanyi dauke da mai mai yawa, emulsions yawanci nau'ikan w / O ne, kuma ana iya amfani da lanolin halitta tare da shan ruwa mai yawa da danko don emulsification. A yanzu, wanda aka fi amfani da shi wanda ba mai ionic emulsifier ba shi ne cewa emulsifier wanda ba ionic din ba lafiya ne kuma yana da karancin fushi. Shahararren mai sihiri na asbit acid (Span) da adonsa na ethylene (Tween) sune masu emulsifiers wadanda ba ionic ba. Span shine lipophilic kuma Tween hydrophilic ne, kuma an haɗasu biyu. An yi amfani dashi a cikin emulsions na O / W, yana iya haifar da emulsions tare da kwanciyar hankali mai kyau da kusancin fata.

2) Warwarewa

Al'amarin ƙara narkewar ƙaramin narkewa ko abubuwa mara narkewa shi ake kira solubilization. Lokacin da aka kara ruwa mai ruwa a saman ruwa, sai tashin hankali na saman ruwa ya ragu sosai da farko, sannan kuma sai a samar da micelles na kwayoyin halitta. Ofididdigar abin da aka yi amfani da shi don ƙirƙirar micelles ana kiransa mahimmancin ƙwayar micelle. Lokacin da hankalin mai masaniyar ya kai hankali kan micelle, micelle na iya shan mai ko daskararrun matosai a ƙarshen ƙarshen lipophilic base, saboda haka yana ƙaruwa da ƙaramin abu mai narkewa ko mara narkewa.

Solubilizer a cikin kayan shafawa galibi ana amfani dasu wajen samar da mayukan shafawa, tonic gashi, da tonic gashi. Surfactants da aka yi amfani da su azaman solubilizers ya kamata su sami babban hydrophilicity, HLB> 15, kamar su polyoxyethylene mai tauri man fetur, polyoxyethylene castor oil, mai giya mai polyoxyethylene ether, mai mai shan polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene Ether, polyoxyethylene ether, acid da sauransu.

Abubuwan da ke cikin mai a cikin kayan shafawa, kamar su kamshi, mai, da bitamin mai narkewa, suna da tsari daban-daban na solubilization saboda bambance-bambance a cikin tsari da na iya bayyana. Sabili da haka, yakamata a zaɓi masu dacewa a matsayin solubilizers. Misali, abubuwan solubilization na ruwan shafawa sune turare, mai da magunguna, da sauransu, don haka ana iya amfani da alkyl polyoxyethylene ethers don warwarewa. Kodayake alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ethers (OP type, TX type) suna da ƙarfin warware solubilizing, suna harzuka ga idanu kuma gabaɗaya basa amfani dasu. Bugu da kari, abubuwanda suke samar da mai na amporteric mai amfani da mai a cikin turare mai mai da kayan mai na kayan lambu, kuma irin wadannan masanan basu da haushi ga idanuwa kuma sun dace da shirya shamfu marasa cutarwa da sauran kayan shafe shafe.

3) Watsewa

Al’amarin da abubuwa masu narkewa cikin ruwa ke haifar da barbashi a cikin yanayin tarwatsewar shi cikin ruwa ana kiransa watsawa. Tsarin watsawa na kayan shafawa ya haɗa da sassa uku: foda, mai narkewa da watsawa. Ana iya raba foda zuwa nau'i biyu: launuka masu ba da amfani (kamar talc, mica, titanium dioxide, carbon carbon, da sauransu) da kuma sinadaran launuka (kamar su phthalocyanine blue, da sauransu), galibi don sanya kayan shafawa suna da launi mai kyau, iya rufe launi na baya, kuma suna da amfani mai kyau An raba Solvents zuwa nau'i biyu: tushen ruwa da mara ruwa. Masu watsawa da aka yi amfani da su azaman kafofin watsa labaru suna da ruwa (ana amfani da su ne ga tsarin ruwa) da kuma lipophilic (ana amfani da su ne ga tsarin da ba ruwa ba). Saboda haka, tsarin yana da haɗuwa da yawa.

Yawancin masarufin da aka yi amfani da su a cikin masu watsawa duka masu emulsifiers ne da masu tarwatsewa, kamar su mai shan mai shan polyoxyethylene ethers, sorbitan fatty acid esters, mai shan mai shan polyoxyethylene ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates da alkyl ethers. Sulfonates, da sauransu, duk suna da kyawawan abubuwan tarwatsa abubuwa. Domin garin ya yadu sosai a cikin ruwan, dole ne ruwan ya kasance yana iya jike farfin fatar sosai. Sabili da haka, lokacin zaɓar masaniyar ruwa, da farko la'akari da HLB na farfajiyar foda da matsakaiciyar watsawa. Kullum, yayin amfani da foda na lipophilic a cikin tsarin da ke cikin ruwa, yakamata ayi amfani da masu amfani da ruwan sama musamman.

4) Tasirin tsaftacewa

Samfurin mutum da akayi amfani dashi don tsaftacewa galibi sun haɗa da shamfu, gel ɗin wanka da mai tsabtace fuska. Bugu da ƙari ga tsabtatawa, kumfa da ayyukan ƙanshi, babban abin la’akari a halin yanzu shine taushi ga fata. Wannan yana buƙatar cewa mai yin ruwa ba zai lalata ƙwayoyin epidermal ba, baya shafar furotin na fata, kuma baya ratsawa ko kutsawa cikin fata. Don kiyaye man fatar da fata kanta a cikin yanayin al'ada.

Anionic surfactants suna da tarihin tsaftacewa. Wankan sabulu kwatankwacin sauran mayukan wankan. Sodium lauryl sulfate wani abu ne wanda aka saba amfani dashi wajen tsabtace kayan shafe shafe, yana iya sanya fatar ta sami sakamako mai kyau na tsaftacewa. Abubuwan da ke cikin kwayar halittar ruwa, imidazoline, cocamidopropyl betaine da amino acid dukkansu masu karamin tsafta ne, kuma abubuwa ne da ba makawa don shirya kayayyakin tsaftace fuskoki, shamfu masu kula da gashi da kuma shamfu na jarirai.

5) sakamako mai laushi da antistatic

Cactic surfactants su ne manyan kwandishan a cikin kayayyakin kwalliyar gashi kamar na’urar sanyaya daki da sanyaya daki. Suna da laushi mai kyau da iyawar antistatic kuma suna taka rawa ta musamman a cikin kwandishan taushin gashi. Mafi amfanicationic surfactants sune monoalkyl da dialkyl quaternary ammonium gishiri, wato gishirin C16-18 monoalkyl ammonium, ninki biyu C16-18 alkyl quaternary ammonium gishiri kuma alkylbenzyl quaternary ammonium salts. Asymmetric tallow,octyl dimethyl quaternary ammonium gishiri da gishirin 3-cetyl methyl ammonium, wadannan gishirin na ammonium masu tarin yawa suna da sakamako mai kyau akan bushewar bushewa, tsefewar gashi da kuma lalata gashi. Kwanan nan, wanda yafi daukar hankali shine gishirin ammonium wanda yake cikin lanolin fatty acid. Yana da ƙarancin fushi kuma yana da riƙewar ruwa da kayan haɓakar lanolin da halaye nacationic surfactants, wanda zai iya ba gashi danshi da taɓawa ta musamman kamar taushi.

6) Jikewa da rami

A matsayin kayan shafawa, dole ne su kasance ba kawai suna da tasirin kyau ba, amma kuma su ji daɗi da taushi lokacin amfani da su. Wadannan basa rabuwa daga tasirin danshi na masu kara ruwa. Dangane da wannan, masu amfani da kwayar halitta sun sami sakamako mai ban mamaki. A matsayin muhimmin bangare na kwayoyin halittu, phospholipids suna taka muhimmiyar rawa a cikin kwayar halitta da tsarin tsarin shigar membrane, kuma suna da kyakkyawar riƙe danshi da kuma iya shiga jikin mutum. Sophorolipid biosurfactants suna da wata alaƙa ta musamman ga fata, wanda zai iya sa fatar ta yi laushi da danshi. Yin amfani da kira na biochemical da sauran hanyoyi don shirya abubuwa masu dacewa masu amfani da biochemical da abubuwan ƙarancin bitamin, shirye-shiryen enzyme, abubuwan haɓakar ƙwayoyin halitta (EGF, DFGF), collagen, elastin, ceramide da hyaluronic acid, da sauransu, ana iya amfani da waɗannan abubuwa a cikin kayan shafawa. Shiga cikin fata, yana shiga cikin jujjuyawar kwayoyin halittar fata da kyallen takarda, yana canza fasalin kayan kyallen fata, da sauransu, don cimma sakamakon anti-wrinkle, anti-tsufa da fari.